Bionic acids (Bionics) and PHA’s are considered by some skin care experts as the future of modern skin care. Compared to their “big brothers”, the AHA’s, Bionics and PHA’s are MORE GENTLE, less irritating and also more MOISTURIZING. They could very well be used by people with MORE SENSITIVE skin types that are not able to use the stronger AHA’s, like GLYCOLIC and LACTIC acid.
Products with PHA’s, in the form of GLUCONOLACTONE and BIONIC ACIDS, in the form of Lactobionic and Maltobionic acids, are still not widespread. The brand that has most of them combined and offers a FULL SERIES with this type of acids is NEOSTRATA and its daughter brand EXUVIANCE.
If you are curious to see, what PHA or Bionics can do for your skin, I suggest you try one of these brands’ products.
I am personally very fond of Neostrata Bionic Face Cream and Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream.If have been using them both of and on since a few months and can truly see they are effective at both hydrating and activating the skin at the same time.
One of the advantages of this type of acids is, that they present the benefit of stimulating cell turnover, something we would all want once we are over 30 (and especially when over 40!). They are, however, much softer on skin than, for example, a product with glycolic or lactic acid.
If you want to introduce one of these products into your routine, I would advice you to do it STEP by STEP, like you would with a “classic” acid. I made the mistake of being over-enthusiast with these products and thought they would be a wonderful match with my Exuviance Retinol, but how wrong I was. Using full strength Retinol and alternating it with even a gentle PHA or Bionic acid on a daily basis, is just NOT a good idea …..
If you’re not on Retinol, or use Retinol in a very low (0,1/0,2 percent), start using your product twice or three times a week and see how that goes for about a month. If all goes well, use it 5 times a week for another month, before making it a daily use product.
If you’re using a stronger Retinol, try and keep AT LEAST three days in between using a PHA/Bionic and your Retinol. Experiment (carefully), to see how long your skin stays sensitive after using Retinol.For me, this is AT LEAST three days after having used Retinol for two nights consecutively.
I recommend you use “simple” moisturizers and lots of HYALURONIC serums/essences to keep hydration levels up and soothe skin as well as you can.
Reviews on both products will follow in a few weeks.
Philippe Cats 